There are cities you love the moment you step foot in them. Then there are other cities that take you a while to warm up to. Of course, the flip-side of this is that there are also cities you hate instantly or fall out of love with.
My relationship with London has been a complicated one. It’s not a city that I can say I love, but at the same time it’s also not a city I can say I hate. I’ve now visited London a number of times and each visit seems to launch me to-and-fro from loving the city to mildly disliking it and then somehow winning me back once again.
Of the many European cities I’ve visited as an adult, the city of London is the one I have the most complex relationship with. In 2004 I returned to Europe for the first time as an adult. The trip was done through Arizona State University’s Barrett Honors College and was a guided six week whirlwind taste of the British Isles with the first three weeks spent in London. Despite the incredible amount of ground we’d covered during the year-long visit to Europe my family and I had engaged in when I was 11, we’d never crossed the channel to explore the British Isles. This made London extra exotic and the ideal place to re-launch my wanderlust as an adult.
As you might imagine, I loved London as I wandered from the Tower to its grand Museums and then out into the countryside to Stonehenge, Bath, and the White Cliffs of Dover. Each cobblestone street teased my imagination and inspired me to explore further. Since then my visits have typically, but not always, been more utilitarian. A trip to London for a conference, to see friends, or for a wedding. These visits are likely at the heart of my mixed love affair with London.
The visits that have given me the best taste of the city of London as an entity were the ones where I was most involved with as a tourist. It was on many of the more utilitarian visits that I found myself disgusted by London’s sprawling, slow and at times grossly over-crowded public transportation system. By the ludicrously short hours for the Metro, and by the sense of dystopian bleakness that defines some of the city’s suburbs. Suburbs that often remind me very much of a scifi megalopolis designed for three or four million but now lumbering under the weight of four or five times that all colored by an aging infrastructure, crime, and urban decay. While this, and the reality that Londoners in some areas are lovely, while Londoners in others are…not, is all true but I’ve come to realize misses what the city has to offer.…